Climbers know that efficiency is key to enjoying adventures in the mountains. This is true both for movement and for equipment. In addition to all of the training you are doing, part of the preparation for your climb is making sure that you have the proper gear. The right equipment choices provide an added degree of comfort and safety, allowing you to focus on the climb and enjoy the experience.
We know you have many choices when it comes to outdoor products. And because we also know that navigating all the options can be overwhelming, we created this Gear Guide to help simplify the outfitting process. In this post we share our philosophy, tips and advice, and specific functions and features of each equipment item listed for a summit attempt on Rainier. We also identify the products that we believe are the “best in class” and ideal for climbing Rainier.
Our guide was written with input from the RMI guide team, who have been guiding climbers on Mt. Rainier since 1969. As outfitters of RMI for the last few decades, we have a pretty good idea about what works and what doesn’t up on the mountain. All of our gear suggestions can be bought or rentedfrom our store, in person or online.
How This Works:
We've divided our guide into two pages; Gear and Apparel. This is the Gear page.
If you're looking for Apparel please click here. If you're looking for Guide Pick please click here.
Otherwise, feel free to click on the section you're interested in below, or just start scrolling!
Backpacks and Bags
A 65-70+ liter pack large enough to carry all of your personal gear, food and water is the recommended size for this climb. With everything packed, your pack will weigh approximately 40 lbs. A separate summit pack is not needed. Want to learn more about climbing packs? Check out our blog post!
GUIDE TIP
A slightly larger capacity pack is convenient for use on the mountain. More room inside allows you to dig around in the pack without needing to pull items out and set them on the slope to find what you are looking for. Attachment loops for securing an ice axe are key for the Rainier climb. Many packs come with a removable flap that separates the sleeping bag compartment from the main body of the pack (extra weight and not needed). Most guides remove this flap as the pack carries and packs better when it is a single compartment. We have found that a cheap and effective way to waterproof your pack is to simply line it it with a garbage bag and then packing everything inside to keep all the contents dry.
Sleeping System
Your sleep system is dependent on where you plan to sleep. If you are in a hut you will not need a sleeping pad, sleeping in a tent you will. If you're climbing Rainier and staying in a hut, you'll be fine with a closed-cell foam pad, which are provided by RMI Expeditions.
For bags, we recommend a bag rated between 0° to 20° F. Both down and synthetic work well. Use the 0° bag in May, June and September when it colder, and the 20° bag in July and August when it is warmer.
Sleeping Pads provide cushioning and insulation between your body and the ground. When choosing a pad, consider the terrain and temperatures. The harder or colder the ground, the more cushion and insulation required. If you're climbing Rainier with a guide service and staying at Camp Muir, you'll be fine with a closed-cell foam pad. But if you're planning on staying in a tent, we recommend a combination of an inflatable and a closed cell pad.
Waterproof Protection with a More Sustainable Approach
The Gregory Raincover collection utilizes recycled polyester ripstop material to provide a durable barrier for your pack from the elements. Re...
Ultralight cover protects pack from the weather
The Ultra-Sil Pack Cover ends the debate about whether you should carry one or not. It's a tiny and compelling solution and the medium size weighs le...
Our Go-to Climbing Pack For Rainier
Dedicated, durable, and designed for ice cragging, mixed ascents, and cold-weather expeditions, the Mission pack is Black Diamond's toughest alpine pack. Featuri...
Expedition Alpine climbing pack dedicated to committed alpinists looking for extreme weight-savings, performance and versatility to achieve ambitious projects in the most demanding environments on ...
Superlight meets Ultra Durable
The superlight expedition alpine climbing pack dedicated to committed alpinists looking for achieving ambitious projects in the most demanding environments on the pla...
Lightweight Performance on Rock, Snow and Ice Objectives
Black Diamond's tried-and-true on-route alpine pack, proven everywhere from the Canadian Rockies to the Fitz Roy massif, the Black Diamon...
A Staple on Denali
The Denali 100 is one of our favorite packs for expedition-length adventures. You've probably guessed by its name, but this pack is a staple on RMI Expeditions' Alaska trips. Li...
A Staple on Rainier
A staple workhorse of our rental program, the Denali 75L is the ideal no-frill mountaineering pack. Super adjustable, this pack fits a wide range of bodies, and the Fusion Flex...
Cold Outside, but not Inside this Bag
The Expedition 1200 sleeping bag is exceptionally warm and is designed for temperatures as low as -35°C. The warmest-weight bags in the Rab range, the expediti...
A Light, Compressible, Ultra-warm Reprieve from Warm Mountain Conditions
One down bag to rule them all—whether you're a climber, skier, or backpacker, the versatile, gold-standard Phantom™ is a...
A Tried-and-True Blanket for Any Occasion
The Original Puffy outdoor blanket is a packable, portable blanket that goes everywhere. With a ripstop shell and insulation made from 100% recycled mat...
So Good, We Rent this to Our Clients
Our legendary synthetic-insulated, seamless construction Lamina™ family of sleeping bags are back with new shell fabric and Temperlite™ insulation that delivers...
Stay Warm in Subzero Temperatures
When we're settling in for a frigid night at base camp, we're confident in the lofty 800-fill goose down that's packed into the -20F Inferno Sleeping Bag. This bag...
Ultralight and Packable Sleep Solution
Ultra-lightweight with a highly tapered cut, the Mythic 200 is designed for summer, alpine style missions where weight and pack size are crucial to success....
Award-Winning Ultra-versatile Waterproof Soft Gear Storage
Perfect dry compression storage for everything from bikepacking to sea kayaking and beyond. Made from a bluesign-approved recycled 70D ny...
Ultra-lightweight Gear Storage for Organized Packing
The Ultra-Sil Stuff Sack is an ultralight but durable solution using a water-resistant, bluesign® approved Ultra-Sil 30D nylon fabric with a No...
Space-saving, ultra-lightweight gear storage for organized packing.
When you need to compress volume without significantly adding weight, the Ultra-Sil Compression Sack is an excellent solution. M...
Keep Your Gear Dry
Perfect dry compression storage to keep gear reliably dry and compact inside a backpack or bike bag. Made from bluesign-approved ultra lightweight Ultra-Sil 30D Cordura® nylon wi...
All-season Self-inflating Comfort
For journeying into the backcountry with self-inflating support, our ProLite Plus is a camp favorite. The 1.5-inch (3.8 cm) pad boasts a 3.2 R-value for added warm...
Camp with Lightweight Comfort
For lightweight self-inflating support, the ProLite Apex brings packable performance and legendary Therm-a-Rest support. The self-inflating foam measures 2 inches (5...
Sleep in Comfort
Don’t let the minimal pack size fool you. The Air Head Lite provides the same big comfort as our regular Air Head for a fraction of the weight. The air pillow provides the perfect...
An undisputed Guide Pick™ champion the last few years in a row, the NeoAir series is the go-to for mountaineering sleeping pads.
Ultralight and ultra-packable, the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite NXT sle...
Ultralight and warm, the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XTherm NXT sleeping pad is highly durable and boasts a 7.3 R value, giving it a warmth-to-weight ratio suited for extremely cold backcountry pursuits.
W...
Soft Foam your Head will Enjoy
Designed to pack small and deliver big comfort away from home, the Compressible Pillow Cinch is a must-have for camping, road trips, airplanes and anywhere else you...
Ultralight Kit for Instant, Self-adhesive Repairs in the Field
The Instant Field Repair Kit makes fast, easy and lasting mattress repairs in the field. It includes all the same great self-adhesive...
You Should Take this on Every Hike
With its accordion-style design and closed-cell foam construction, the Z Seat camping seat is an ounce-counter's solution to on-the-spot comfort. It's virtually ...
Plush and Ultra-light Sleeping Pad
The NeoAir XLite NXT MAX is the finest full-rectangular ultralight air sleeping pad for year-round backcountry adventures. By refining the way our cutting-edge co...
Keeps You Comfortable in Warm, Humid Weather
The Adaptor COOLMAX® sleeping bag liner will help you adapt to varying temperatures and humidity. The washable, knitted COOLMAX® fabric wicks moisture a...
Ice Axes
The standard route on Mt. Rainier is mostly non-technical with little, if any, overhead use of the ice axe. A standard mountaineering ice axe will work best. The axe is a great third point of balance on steeper slopes as well as a tool for self arrest if a fall occurs. We discourage ice axe leashes that attach to the wrist as these mostly get in the way on the multiple switchbacks on the route.
The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground. Keep in mind that on the lower mountain, you'll be using trekking poles instead of an axe.
If you want to learn more about how to pick the right ice axe, check out our guide here.
10 or 12 point steel adjustable crampons are ideal for climbing on Rainier. Avoid aluminum crampons as they are easily damaged on rock. Your crampons should be adjusted so that the sole of the boot sits snugly on the crampon frame, and the toe and heel bails snug securely around the boot, minimizing any movement.
Crampons are right and left foot specific, with the buckles designed to sit to the outside of the ankle, and the adjustment bar bent to mirror the shape of the foot. Typically, straps run from the ankle, through the toe bail, and to the buckles on the outside of the ankle. Excess strap length can be trimmed or tucked inside the velcro on the front of the gaiters.
We suggest an alpine climbing harness vs. a rock climbing harness. Rainier is primarily a glacier climb, which means you spend a lot of time walking in the harness and not hanging in it. Alpine harnesses are generally simple designs with less padding on the hip and waist belts. They are lighter and allow a greater range of motion. This makes them easier to wear with a pack when climbing for long periods. Removable, drop seat or adjustable leg loops are more convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the day and facilitate going to the bathroom.
Want to learn more about how to choose a mountaineering harness? Check out our blog post here.
You'll also need a Triple-Action locking carabiner to go along with your harness.
A triple action carabiner is a locking carabiner that requires three steps to open: 1) lifting the lock, 2) twisting the lock, and 3) pushing the gate open. It then "auto-locks" when the gate is released. The three-step to open and auto-locking to close actions make them safer than standard screw-gate locking carabiners as they are unlikely to inadvertently move to the open position during the climb. For this reason, we require that all climbers use a triple action locking carabiner to tie into the rope on our climbs.
A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet should be used on Rainier. Bicycle or ski helmets are designed for a different type of impact and will not substitute as a climbing helmet.
GUIDE TIP
Your helmet should fit comfortably with and without a hat. It should be tight enough that it won't slide around when you move your head, but not so tight that it creates uncomfortable pressure. The helmet should sit much like a regular hat: directly on top of your head with the front just above your brow. A good fit will not allow the helmet to slide back on your head and leave your forehead exposed.
Glacier Glasses
Heading
A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap- type sunglasses. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much a 20+%. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.
Glacier glasses remove 100% of UV light, and the lenses let a small fraction of visible light through so that the wearer does not have to squint on bright days. They have a large, wrap- around frames for increased coverage, and a closer fit so that reflected light does not leak in from the sides of the frame.
Goggles
Goggles (typical ski goggles) are worn in bad weather and high winds. They don't need to be dark as they are often worn at night or in low light conditions. In fact, we recommend goggles with clear lenses, as they can be useful for contact lens wearers to protect against blowing volcanic dust on breezy climbs.
Headlamp
A headlamp with a bright beam is attached to the climbing helmet for climbing at night. Most headlamps use LED bulbs and are very efficient with batteries, but carrying a spare set of batteries is a good idea. The headlamp can be worn on your head around camp and later attached to the climbing helmet using the small plastic tabs positioned along the helmet's edge.
The Half Dome Has Long Been a Staple for Climbers Worldwide
A well-designed helmet should be put on... and then forgotten. You can be wearing a helmet for 10-12 hours at a time while climbing, so ...
A "Guide Pick" For A Reason
A well-designed helmet should be put on... and then forgotten. You can be wearing a helmet for 10-12 hours at a time while climbing, so comfort is almost as important a...
Ultra-lightweight Helmet for Climbing and Mountaineering
Remarkably lightweight for ambitious climbers and mountaineers. The SIROCCO helmet was designed to give you an exceptional weight-to-prote...
Guide Pick for a Reason
Faster, higher, stronger: High-alpine mountaineering continues to evolve and so does Julbo's flagship model for climbing in alpine environments. The Explorer 2.0 is more erg...
MONTEROSA 2 is the Perfect Ally for Admiring Stunning Landscapes
The lines of this now iconic Julbo model have been completely redefined for a more contemporary look showcasing its dynamic sporti...
Julbo Has Combined its High-altitude Technical Expertise with a Modern Look
Shield M will open your field of vision and expand your mind in the mountains. The sleek, rectangular shape ensures style...
High End Glacier Glasses for Getting High (on the Mountain)
Glacier travel. High elevation summits. Spring snowfields. Eye protection in the alpine is serious business. Whether you're skiing or mou...
Powerful, Rechargeable, and Easy-to-use Headlamp with Red Lighting
ACTIK® with a rechargeable battery! The ideal rechargeable headlamp to extend your dynamic outdoor activities. Casting 600 lumens,...
Casting 1100 lumens at a weight of only 100 g, SWIFT RL is the ultimate multi-sport headlamp for all your outdoor activities. Using REACTIVE LIGHTING® technology, a sensor analyzes the ambient ligh...
For midweek dawn patrols, all-night approaches, or just big climbing objectives that push beyond daylight,
For a technical user who expects all-around performance and features out of their headlam...
3 Glove System
Gloves & Mittens
Lightweight Gloves
A light pair of gloves are worn for much of the climb. They can be fleece, soft- shell, or a wind block/wind-stopper type material. Most of these will have a leather or synthetic palm for better gripping. Light gloves provide a bit of insulation and protection when holding the ice axe.
Midweight Gloves
Your medium weight glove is a typical ski glove, insulated but with dexterity. They are worn for most of the upper mountain climb. Guides generally prefer gloves with leather palms as they are more durable, wind proof, and can be waterproofed repeatedly.
Heavy Gloves & MIttens
The heavy weight glove or mitt is worn high on the mountain in cold or stormy conditions. Even in the middle of summer, blizzard type conditions and high winds can force climbers to use this level of protection.
Step up
Mountaineering Footwear
Footwear is one of the most important parts of your mountaineering gear. The right boot, sock, and gaiter combination can make or break a summit attempt. For our full guide to Mountain Footwear, click here!
Approach Shoes
Approach shoes are used, you guessed it, on the approach to the actual climb. On Rainier, much of the climb to Camp Muir is snow-free in the summer months, and a lightweight pair of approach shoes feels a lot better on rock and pavement than heavy mountaineering boots. These should be light, breathable, have a good traction sole, and be comfortable for all day use. They will serve as both a travel shoe and a trail shoe for acclimatization day hikes.
Mountaineering Boots
Insulated mountaineering boots with completely rigid soles are needed to climb Mt. Rainier. While both leather single and double boots will work well, each has strengths and weaknesses. Double boots are highly recommended for early/late season climbs (April - June and September) and also when freezing levels are below 10,000.’ Appropriate leather boots (stiff-soled, insulated and designed to hold a crampon) are appropriate for mid season (July/August) and warmer weather climbs. Mountaineering boots are designed to remain stiff for kicking steps and working with crampons. To ensure that your feet do well, mountaineering boots must be comfortable right from the start. If renting boots, consider bringing personal orthotics or footbeds.
A Guide Favorite
The TX4 EVO is an eco-friendly leather shoe designed to guarantee maximum stability and grip even on the roughest terrain. Ideal for technical approaches and easy climbing routes...
Step Up your Trail Running Game
Featuring an aggressive outsole, burly lugs and an adaptable fit, the Mutant is built for covering serious terrain. Equipped with the stickiest FriXion® XF 2.0 rub...
The Women's Version of our Guide Pick Approach Shoe
The TX4 EVO Women's is an eco-friendly leather shoe designed to guarantee maximum stability and grip even on the roughest terrain. Ideal for te...
RMI Expeditions Guides Love this Boot
G2 Evo is the ultra thermal double boot for extreme mountaineering and prolonged use at low temperatures. G2 Evo belongs to the La Sportiva high mountain line...
Our Guides Prefer this Boot for Cold Weather Climbs
There are boots that can make it up a peak, and then there are boots that are made for the job. The SCARPA Phantom 6000 falls into the latter cat...
Our Guides Love this Boot for Rainier
This boot is the Guide Pick™ for mid-season Rainier climbs, or anywhere a single, leather boot is required! The Nepal Cube GTX is a warm and technical mountai...
Recommended for Lower Elevation Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, and Heavy Winter Backpacking
This versatile, insulated boot’s ankle design has been tweaked to allow for slightly softer, easier ankle ...
Our Guides Love This Boot for Rainier
This boot is the Guide Pick™ for mid-season Rainier climbs, or anywhere a single, leather boot is required! The Nepal Cube GTX is a warm and technical mountai...
A new take on a versatile all-around alpine boot.
This insulated model’s design balances flexibility with durability, and excels in both hiking comfort and climbing performance. The Fit Wing featur...
One of Our Favorite Boots for Rainier
This versatile, insulated boot’s ankle design has been tweaked to allow for slightly softer, easier ankle flex when traveling uphill, but its best-selling conc...
Get Out There with the Mountaineer Max Cushion Tall Crew Socks
Get out there with the Mountaineer Max Cushion Tall Crew Socks. Featuring our most advanced Indestructawool technology for enh...
Maximum Cushioning
With full, plush cushioning, the Classic Mountaineer Maximum Cushion Crew sock is just right for your long-distance and backpacking hikes. Its elasticized arch brace ...
Your Feet Will Thank You
Sleet, freezing rain, sub-zero wind chills, snow? More please. Our Mountaineering sock never heads for shelter. If you're out there, this sock wants to be with you.
Will You See...
Aliens, bears and camels: We named this sock after everything you’re likely to see on an un-average hike, and built it with enough cushioning to keep you cozy when the going gets we...
Accessories and Food
All The Rest
Accessories
There are several other things recommended for a Rainier climb, such as:
Sunscreen We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
Lip Balm SPF 15 or higher
Eating Utensils A bowl, spork or fork, and mug for food and hot drinks.
Garbage Bags These can be used for lining your backpack or sleeping bag stuff sack.
Ziploc Bags To collect your personal trash from lunches and snacks.
Ear Plugs These are nice to have while in the climbers hut to block out some of the noise of others getting up to use the rest rooms.
Toothpaste and Toothbrush A travel size tube such as Crest Travel Size
Baby Wipes A travel pack size
Hand Sanitizer A personal size of Purell Hand Sanitzer.
Toilet Paper For those high-altitude breaks
Wide Mouth Water Bottle We recommend 2-3 Wide Mouth Nalgene Bottles.
Mask In order to comply with Covid-19 Policies.
Meals
Most people are used to going out for a day of skiing or hiking, snacking on whatever’s handy, and coming home to a big, calorie-replenishing dinner. But the average summit bid on Mount Rainier requires that climbers be on their feet and moving for somewhere between 14 - 18 hours, meaning you’ve got to keep your body fueled.
But there’s a catch; most people lose their appetite at altitude. Good climbers learn to choke down a couple hundred calories per hour regardless of how they’re feeling, because they know that the ability to fuel up is often one of the deciding factors between those who summit and the ones who don’t.
In order to keep your appetite, try to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, form sweet to sour to salty. Don’t worry too much about the nutritional aspect of your meals; concern yourself more with high calorie intake.
If you're climbing with RMI Expeditions, feel reserve a Mountaineering Meal Package so you don't have to worry about what to eat on your climb!
Guide Tip
Water Bottles
2 to 3 liters of capacity is recommended. Screw top, hard-sided water bottles are preferable, to resist freezing and leakage. Hydration systems can be useful to Camp Muir, however they have a greater tendency to freeze and leak on the upper mountain. While the durability of hydration systems has increased significantly in recent years, we continue to see issues with them when used higher on the mountain as the temperatures are quite cold and the hydration systems rest directly beneath the backpad of the pack, and climbers sit on their packs at rest breaks. As a result, the hydration system tubes (even insulated ones) tend to freeze during the climb or the bladders begin leaking. If you would like to use a hydration system, please still plan on bringing two water bottles as a backup.
Thanks for reading
Still have questions?
Feel free to shoot us a message at info@whittakermountaineering.com, give us a call, or visit our store!
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