Backpacks
A 65-70+ liter pack large enough to carry all of your personal gear, food and water is the recommended size for this climb. With everything packed, your pack will weigh approximately 40 lbs. A separate summit pack is not needed.
GUIDE TIP
A slightly larger capacity pack is convenient for use on the mountain. More room inside allows you to dig around in the pack without needing to pull items out and set them on the slope to find what you are looking for. Attachment loops for securing an ice axe are key for the Rainier climb. Many packs come with a removable flap that separates the sleeping bag compartment from the main body of the pack (extra weight and not needed). Most guides remove this flap as the pack carries and packs better when it is a single compartment. We have found that a cheap and effective way to waterproof your pack is to simply line it it with a garbage bag and then packing everything inside to keep all the contents dry.
Sleeping System
Your sleep system is dependent on where you plan to sleep. If you are in a hut you will not need a sleeping pad, sleeping in a tent you will. If you're climbing Rainier and staying in a hut, you'll be fine with a closed-cell foam pad.
For bags, we recommend a bag rated between 0° to 20° F. Both down and synthetic work well. Use the 0° bag in May, June and September when it colder, and the 20° bag in July and August when it is warmer.
Sleeping Pads provide cushioning and insulation between your body and the ground. When choosing a pad, consider the terrain and temperatures. The harder or colder the ground, the more cushion and insulation required. If you're climbing Rainier with a guide service and staying at Camp Muir, you'll be fine with a closed-cell foam pad. But if you're planning on staying in a tent, we recommend a combination of an inflatable and a closed cell pad.
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Your sleeping bag will be stuffed in a compression stuff sack. A slightly larger stuff sack allows you to easily stuff your sleeping bag and perhaps also add your down jacket or extra layers, buying you a little more space in your pack. You can line your stuff sack with a garbage bag to waterproof it.
For stuff sacks, here's what we recommend!
Technical Gear
Technical gear includes your Ice Axe, Crampons, Harness, Carabiners, Avalanche Transceiver, and Trekking Poles. There's a lot to unpack here, so we'll break it down by item.
Ice Axe
The standard route on Mt. Rainier is mostly non-technical with little, if any, overhead use of the ice axe. A standard mountaineering ice axe will work best. The axe is a great third point of balance on steeper slopes as well as a tool for self arrest if a fall occurs. We discourage ice axe leashes that attach to the wrist as these mostly get in the way on the multiple switchbacks on the route.
The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
Crampons
10 or 12 point steel adjustable crampons are ideal for climbing on Rainier. Avoid aluminum crampons as they are easily damaged on rock. Your crampons should be adjusted so that the sole of the boot sits snugly on the crampon frame, and the toe and heel bails snug securely around the boot, minimizing any movement. Crampons are right and left foot specific, with the buckles designed to sit to the outside of the ankle, and the adjustment bar bent to mirror the shape of the foot. Typically, straps run from the ankle, through the toe bail, and to the buckles on the outside of the ankle. Excess strap length can be trimmed or tucked inside the velcro on the front of the gaiters. To learn more, check out the Whittaker Mountaineering Guide to Ice Axes and Crampons.
Here are a few of our recommended Crampons.
Harness
We suggest an alpine climbing harness vs. a rock climbing harness. Rainier is primarily a glacier climb, which means you spend a lot of time walking in the harness and not hanging in it. Alpine harnesses are generally simple designs with less padding on the hip and waist belts. They are lighter and allow a greater range of motion. This makes them easier to wear with a pack when climbing for long periods. Removable, drop seat or adjustable leg loops are more convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the day and facilitate going to the bathroom.
Here are a few of our recommended Harnesses.
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You'll also need a Triple-Action locking carabiner to go along with your harness.
A triple action carabiner is a locking carabiner that requires three steps to open: 1) lifting the lock, 2) twisting the lock, and 3) pushing the gate open. It then "auto-locks" when the gate is released. The three-step to open and auto-locking to close actions make them safer than standard screw-gate locking carabiners as they are unlikely to inadvertently move to the open position during the climb. For this reason, we require that all climbers use a triple action locking carabiner to tie into the rope on our climbs.
For a carabiner, here's what we recommend!
Trekking Poles
Trekking poles help balance and stabilize a heavy pack on the ascent to Camp Muir. They also help take some stress off of the knees during the descent. Lightweight and collapsible poles are recommended. Larger basket work well with deep snow. Ski poles will also work.
Here are a few of our recommended Trekking Poles.
Head Gear
For head gear, you'll need a climbing helmet, glacier glasses, goggles, headlamp, a buff, and a beanie.
Helmets
A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet should be used on Rainier. Bicycle or ski helmets are designed for a different type of impact and will not substitute as a climbing helmet.
Check out a few of our suggested helmets below.
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Your helmet should fit comfortably with and without a hat. It should be tight enough that it won't slide around when you move your head, but not so tight that it creates uncomfortable pressure. The helmet should sit much like a regular hat: directly on top of your head with the front just above your brow. A good fit will not allow the helmet to slide back on your head and leave your forehead exposed.
Glacier Glasses
A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap- type sunglasses. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much a 20+%. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.
Glacier glasses remove 100% of UV light, and the lenses let a small fraction of visible light through so that the wearer does not have to squint on bright days. They have a large, wrap- around frames for increased coverage, and a closer fit so that reflected light does not leak in from the sides of the frame.
Check out a few of our suggested glacier glasses below.
VIDEO SEGMENT
Here's climbing legend Melissa Arnot talking about the importance of Glacier Glasses
Goggles
Goggles (typical ski goggles) are worn in bad weather and high winds. They don't need to be dark as they are often worn at night or in low light conditions. Goggles can be useful for contact lens wearers to protect against blowing volcanic dust on breezy climbs.
Check out a few of our favorite goggles below!
Headlamps
A headlamp with a bright beam is attached to the climbing helmet for climbing at night. Most headlamps use LED bulbs and are very efficient with batteries, but carrying a spare set of batteries is a good idea. The headlamp can be worn on your head around camp and later attached to the climbing helmet using the small plastic tabs positioned along the helmet's edge.
Here are a few of our favorite headlamps.
Gloves
RMI Guides recommend using a 3 glove system, consisting of lightweight, medium weight, and heavy weight gloves or mitts.
Lightweight Gloves
A light pair of gloves are worn for much of the climb. They can be fleece, soft- shell, or a wind block/wind-stopper type material. Most of these will have a leather or synthetic palm for better gripping. Light gloves provide a bit of insulation and protection when holding the ice axe.
Medium Weight Gloves
Your medium weight glove is a typical ski glove, insulated but with dexterity. They are worn for most of the upper mountain climb. Guides generally prefer gloves with leather palms as they are more durable, wind proof, and can be waterproofed repeatedly.
Heavy Weight Gloves or Mitts
The heavy weight glove or mitt is worn high on the mountain in cold or stormy conditions. Even in the middle of summer, blizzard type conditions and high winds can force climbers to use this level of protection.
Footwear
Footwear is one of the most important parts of your mountaineering gear. The right boot, sock, and gaiter combination can make or break a summit attempt. For our full guide to Mountain Footwear, click here!
Mountaineering Boots
Insulated mountaineering boots with completely rigid soles are needed to climb Mt. Rainier. While both leather and plastic boots will work well, each has strengths and weaknesses. Plastic boots will work well all season long and are highly recommended for early/late season climbs (April - June and September) and also when freezing levels are below 10,000.’ Plastic boots require no break in period. Appropriate leather boots (stiff-soled, insulated and designed to hold a crampon) are appropriate for mid season (July/August) and warmer weather climbs. Whether leather or plastic, mountaineering boots are designed to remain stiff for kicking steps and working with crampons. To ensure that your feet do well, mountaineering boots must be comfortable right from the start. If renting boots, consider bringing personal orthotics or footbeds.
Here are a few of our recommended boots!
Approach Shoes
Approach shoes are used, you guessed it, on the approach to the actual climb. On Rainier, much of the climb to Camp Muir is snow-free in the summer months, and a lightweight pair of approach shoes feels a lot better on rock and pavement than heavy mountaineering boots. These should be light, breathable, have a good traction sole, and be comfortable for all day use. They will serve as both a travel shoe and a trail shoe for acclimatization day hikes.
Here are a few of our recommended Approach Shoes.
We recommend a knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will guard against catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Knee length gaiters are a good option for early and late season when you may encounter deep snow on the climb. In mid-summer, when most of the climb will take place on firm snow, a shorter gaiter can be used. The shorter gaiter still protects from snow getting in your boots while providing less coverage in warmer conditions.
Here are a few of our recommended Gaiters.
Accessories
There are several other things recommended for a Rainier climb, such as:
- Sunscreen We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
- Lip Balm SPF 15 or higher
- Eating Utensils A bowl, spork or fork, and mug for food and hot drinks.
- Garbage Bags These can be used for lining your backpack or sleeping bag stuff sack.
- Ziploc Bags To collect your personal trash from lunches and snacks.
- Ear Plugs These are nice to have while in the climbers hut to block out some of the noise of others getting up to use the rest rooms.
- Toothpaste and Toothbrush A travel size tube such as Crest Travel Size
- Baby Wipes A travel pack size
- Hand Sanitizer A personal size of Purell Hand Sanitzer.
- Toilet Paper For those high-altitude breaks
